Grass-fed. Sustainable. Organic. Farm to table. Free-range. Fair trade. These words are bandied about the food world with increasing frequency, but it’s not always clear what they mean. We want to make environmentally correct, healthy food choices, but a little guidance is in order. Happily, many Edina area restaurants offer sustainable menu options, with dishes that are both tasty and conscientious. Here are seven of our favorites. Go ahead and indulge with a squeaky-clean conscience.
CAGE FREE, FREE RANGE ORGANIC EGGS
People’s Breakfast Croissant at Peoples Organic
Peoples Organic’s tagline reads “Organic. Local. Fair trade.” So there’s never any guesswork at this eatery—and in case you thought that organic means virtuous, think again. Peoples Organic breakfast croissant is as orgasmic as it gets: it features eggs from uncaged, hormone-free chickens, nitrate-free bacon from happy pigs, roasted organic tomatoes, gruyere and guacamole on a house-made butter-bomb of a croissant. Don’t feel bad about the fat and sodium content—the local and fair trade part cancels that out. $8. 3545 Galleria; 952.426.1856
FREE-RANGE CHICKEN
Brick-pressed Rosemary Lemon Chicken at Mozza Mia
Free-range chickens get to run around, whereas conventionally raised chickens are packed into tiny cages stacked one on top of another. Mozza Mia’s wood-grilled brick-pressed chickens have been running around the Kadejan Farm, a family-owned operation in nearby Glenwood. These birds were fed neither antibiotics nor growth stimulants nor animal byproducts. Most importantly, they really taste like chicken, not the rubbery mouthful of bland pap that we’ve grown used to. Mozza Mia’s treatment is brilliant: The bird is halved, marinated with rosemary brine, garlic and lemon, smashed under a brick and roasted in the restaurant’s massive wood-fired stove. The chicken arrives at the table nestled in a cast-iron skillet, all crispy-skinned and juicy. Peek under the chicken and you’ll find a bed of potatoes and escarole infused with the dreamy drippings. $17. 3910 W. 50th St.; 952.288.2882
FARM TO TABLE
Brunch Special at Wiseacre
Wiseacre is the ultimate farm-to-table restaurant, since they actually have their own farm: Everything from the menu comes from Tangletown Gardens’ farm in Plato, Minnesota. They raise heirloom hogs, grass-fed beef, and free-range chickens, ducks and turkeys. An abundance of produce is grown both in fields and in greenhouses so it’s available year-round. Since Mother Nature is fickle, the menu is frequently tweaked in order to feature the season’s best. On our last visit we couldn’t resist the Southern Belle brunch special in honor of Chef Beth Fisher’s mother. It is a masterpiece of complementary flavors and contrasting textures: fried green tomatoes, poached eggs, roasted tomato salsa, thyme-roasted yams, a ham steak and sautéed greens. Crunchy, salty, silky, sweet. $14. 5401 Nicollet Ave. S.; Minneapolis; 612.354.2557
SUSTAINABLE SEAFOOD
Fish Counter at Whole Foods Market
You won’t believe the array of fish and seafood gleaming on piles of ice behind glass, like a vitrine of fine jewels. It’s even harder to believe that it all comes from sustainable sources. Whole Foods was the first market to carry Marine Stewardship Council-certified seafood; they also developed a proprietary set of Quality Standards for Aquaculture, which are verified by a third party. These standards prohibit the use of antibiotics and hormones, test the water for pollution and have minimal impact on the environment. Whole Foods receives seafood shipments every day; we stopped by and saw keta salmon, Chilean sea bass, branzino, bream, yellowtail snapper, halibut and catfish. The friendly fish monger is happy to help you choose a fish and advise how to prepare it. Prices vary. 7401 France Ave. S.; 952.830.3500
GRASS-FED BEEF
Husband and wife Marcus and Abby Andrusko founded the Grass Fed Cattle Company in order to bring affordable, high-quality, safe and responsible beef to the Twin Cities area. It is a cooperative of local farmers who raise 100 percent grass-fed cattle. These contented beasts are free to wander the fields, nibble some greenery and are also hormone- and antibiotic-free. What’s more, the meat is filled with omega-3 fatty acids, cancer-fighting CLAs, and vitamins A and E. But how does it taste? Deliciously beefy, brawny and earthy. Abby Andrusko swears that once you taste it, you’ll never want to go back to the blandness of corn- and grain-fed beef. You can order an eighth, quarter, half or whole steer online; there are once-a-week pickups at their 50th and France location. Other options are a cattle CSA (community supported agriculture) and “cowpooling”—organizing friends and family to share a steer at a reduced price. Every order is vacuum-sealed for freshness, labeled with the name and the weight of the cut and accompanied by cooking tips. The Andruskos host regular gatherings at the farms that they work with so that you can connect with the farmers and know which farm your steer came from. At just less than $7 a pound, it’s a fantastic value. 3939 W. 50th St.; 612.581.7787
GRASS-FED BISON
Bison Burger at The Good Earth
Bison is growing in popularity—you may have noticed herds of these big boys roaming the fields along the highways. Bison are always grass-fed, and the meat is one of the leanest proteins around, with even less fat than chicken. Good Earth’s bison comes from the Dragsmith Bison Farms in Rice Lake, Wis. It’s simply seasoned with salt and pepper, cooked to order (the chef recommends medium) and it comes with lettuce, tomato and pickle on a homemade bakery bun. Or, even better, you can ask for the luscious Good Earth burger treatment, with Portobello mushrooms, avocado, caramelized onions, sunflower sprouts and a red pepper aioli. Want gluten free? Skip the bun. $10.95; with toppings $13.95. 3460 Galleria; 952.925.1001
FAIR TRADE COFFE
NORDEAST MUD at Ambrosia Espresso Bar Cafe
It’s common for coffee plantation workers to labor in substandard conditions. Fair trade certification and labeling was enacted in 1982, and coffee has been a primary focus. To be fair trade-certified, coffee must be picked by workers under fair working conditions and wages, and the farmers must be guaranteed a standardized price. Edina’s Ambrosia Espresso Bar Café is proud to serve only organic, fair trade coffee; they also roast their beans locally. Their special dark roast blend is called Nordeast Mud, but muddy it is not. A robust French roast, it’s smooth and slightly smoky. While you’re sipping on your righteous java, pick up one of the excellent grilled panini. We recommend the tantalizing Tuscan panini, with pesto mayo, chicken breast, tomatoes and provolone on focaccia bread, and Caesar dressing. Medium coffee $2; panini, $6. 7373 France Ave. S.; 952.831.6232
