One of the best things about the holidays is the food. Not just any food, but food specific to the occasion at hand—the Thanksgiving turkey, the Easter ham, the Christmas roast. We are not unique in this; every culture celebrates with food, whether a bounteous feast, part of a symbolic ritual, or simply a rare treat. Now that the holiday season is upon us, it’s time to share culinary delights with our family and friends. Why not also enjoy the festive foods of other traditions? We are graced with a range of world cuisines in Edina, so we thought we’d take a peek at what other cultures are dining on this season.
MEXICO: RED CHILE BRAISED PORK TAMALE
The ancient Mayans celebrated with tamales, and the tradition continues across Latin America today. Tamales, made with a corn-based flour called masa and filled with savory ingredients, are steamed in cornhusks or plantain leaves. One of the most important parts of the holiday tamale ritual today is gathering in the kitchen to make them together. The pork tamales at Cocina del Barrio are a festive combination of red chile for the pork with salsa verde on top. The masa-to-filling ratio varies according to culture and preference, but Cocina del Barrio does not stint on the filling: the succulent pork fairly explodes from the tamale. A bright salsa verde adds heat and color contrast; a fried egg contributes a luscious sauce once the yolk is speared. $8.50. 5036 France Ave. S.; 952.920.1860
FRANCE: RÉVEILLON
My family adhered to the French tradition of a Christmas Eve réveillon. The word is based on the French verb réveiller, “to awaken,” because it is meant to last all night. The dishes served at a réveillon represent the three estates: the church, the peasantry and the aristocracy. The church is symbolized by seafood, the peasantry shows up in the form of a potato or sausage dish, and the aristocracy is always something decadent, preferably chocolate. At Salut Bar Américain, there isn’t a réveillon menu per se, but you can easily create your own. Honor the church with the impressive le grande shellfish tower from Salut’s “raw bar exceptionale.” It boasts six oysters, six fat shrimp, a neat pile of crawfish, half a lobster and a bevy of mussels. For the second course, move onto the earthy and appealing steak frites. We recommend the humble hanger steak for its big beef flavor; the accompanying skinny fries are considered among the best around the cities. Don’t forget to slather it all with a boat of butter-based, tarragon-flecked Béarnaise sauce. For dessert, Salut’s decadent dark “ze chocolate cake” is fit for any aristocrat, especially when graced by a hefty scoop Sebastian Joe’s vanilla bean ice cream. The restaurant closes at 11 p.m. on weekends, but you can always take the fête back home and continue through the night, comme il faut. Shellfish tower, $39; steak frites, $26.95; ze chocolate cake, $6.95. 5034 France Ave. S.; 952.929.3764
ITALY: ZUPPA DI PESCE
As in France, an Italian Christmas Eve has important religious significance. The classic ritual is referred to la vigilia—the vigil—and is meant to go on all night. It is “the feast of the seven fishes,” in deference to the papal decree of abstinence from meat on holy days. A typical vigilia might include cod, eel, mussels, shrimp, whiting, smelt, squid and lobster. Arezzo Ristorante serves a glorious zuppa di pesce, (fish soup) which will knock at least four of the seven fishes off your dance card. The garlicky tomato broth is crowded with tender shrimp, clams, calamari and scallops. Add a starter of calamari fritti, throw some gamberoni alla arancio (tiger prawns in a brandy-orange sauce) and the salmone alla forno (baked salmon in dill cream), and you’ll not only honor the seven sacraments, but stay up late doing so. Zuppa, $19.95; calamari, $11.95; gamberoni, $23.95; salmon, $21.95. 5057 France Ave. S.; 612.285.7444
CHINA: PEKING DUCK
Christmas is not a major holiday in China, as only 1 percent of the population is Christian. The main winter holiday is the Chinese New Year, which falls on the first day of the lunar calendar. On February 10, 2013, Chinese people will welcome the year of the snake with lucky red clothing and endless feasts. Peking duck is a classic special-occasion dish. The duck is a symbol of the much-esteemed virtue of fidelity, and the Peking duck cooking technique dates to the Imperial era. It requires several days and steps of preparation, including forced air to separate skin and fat, a dip in boiling water and a day hung up to dry. A sugary marinade creates the irresistible look of shellacked mahogany. Red Pepper restaurant offers Peking duck “one way” or “two ways,” and it comes with pancakes, scallions, plum sauce and soy sauce. Be sure to order at least 24 hours in advance. One way, $29; two ways, $39. 2902 W. 66th St.; Richfield; 612.869.6817
VIETNAM: BANH KHUC CAY GIANG SINH
The Sweet Retreat Cupcake Boutique
Many Vietnamese people converted to Christianity during the 1887-1954 French rule. This cultural shift had a great impact on the nation’s cuisine, and now we can count on Vietnamese restaurants to proffer excellent baguettes and strong, dark coffee. As a result, one of the most popular Vietnamese Christmas foods is bahn khuc cay giang sinh, also known as bûche de Noël, or yule log cake. It’s a simple sponge cake rolled up with fruit jam, frosted with chocolate buttercream and decorated to look like a log that’s destined for the Christmas fire. Sweet Retreat Cupcake Boutique makes a wonderful version, which was featured on KARE-11 News last year. Call for prices. 5013 France Ave. S.; 612.353.6230
HANUKKAH: LATKES (Potato Pancakes)
Let’s not forget Hanukkah. Although it’s not a major Jewish holiday, it happens to fall around Christmastime and is celebrated with symbolic foods. Our favorite of these are latkes (potato pancakes). The oil used for cooking the pancakes represents the magically long-burning oil that fueled the flame in the Second Temple of ancient Israel. The Original Pancake House makes a delicious version from scratch, using flour, egg, potato and onion. One order includes eight crispy ones, for the eight days of Hanukkah, with a choice or applesauce or sour cream (or both, as we prefer!). Keep that legendary flame in mind as you eat, and marvel at how something as simple as a fried spud can embody the divine. $8.50. 3501 W. 70th St.; 952.920.4444
SPAIN: LECHÓN
Lechón, or roasted pork, is the food for celebration all across Spain and Latin America. The festive occasion begins long before the actual feast, since a suckling pig lazily rotating on a spit is something to behold unto itself. From watching the mouthwatering process to gnawing each bone clean, the lechón revelry can last for hours on end. The lechón at Café Ena is cut from the cherished tenderloin section of the beast and is accompanied by a zingy Spanish chorizo (sausage) croquette. A Rioja wine demi-glaze is drizzled over pork, sautéed greens and roasted artichokes alike, for a taste that is at once rich, deep, and lively. Once you’ve tried this Spanish version of lechón, your new mission in life will be to eat lechón from every other Spanish-speaking nation. Winter vacation in Puerto Rico, anyone? $21.95. 4601 Grand Ave. S.; 612 824.4441
