Thanksgiving is as much about family dynamics as it is about food. Tolstoy might have claimed that all happy families are alike, but we beg to differ. Any two happy families might also be eccentric, argumentative and opinionated—in drastically different ways. Take my own happy family, for instance. Thanksgivings were a joyfully messy and chaotic affair that accommodated multiple generations, personalities and culinary proclivities. Each person’s favorite dish was righteously defended as a badge of identity. It was unthinkable to skip my grandmother’s lemon pie, deny my sister the turkey wing, or suppress my brother’s late-night sandwich raid. I played the benevolent peacekeeper: Pass the potatoes, please. We sought out some of those emblematic dishes–along with a slew of memories–at local family-friendly restaurants. What would your family’s holiday restaurant crawl look like?
THE BIRD NERD
Roast Turkey Dinner at Edina Grill
Carving the turkey is traditionally left to the pater familias, but my older sister took over once she realized that the carver gets to nab all the choice bits. This is one of the few places we’ve found that serves a turkey dinner year-round, and it’s virtual coziness on a plate. At the Edina Grill, the three fat slices from the breast are moist in a way that ours never were; accoutrements include a dense and chunky fruit compote of dates, apricots, cranberry and pineapple, a behemoth mountain of creamy Asiago mashed potatoes and crisp-tender green beans sautéed in a fragrant garlic butter. Only available after 4 p.m. $11. 5028 France Ave. S.; 952.927.7933.
THE VEGAN
Mixed Vegetable Grill at Crave
Whether it’s a teenage phase, a visiting cousin or the new boyfriend/girlfriend, at some point any family gathering is likely to include a vegetarian or vegan at the holiday table. Since Thanksgiving is born of meat and butter, this can present a delicate problem. Luckily, Crave comes to the rescue with an impressive cornucopia of grilled vegetables that will charm carnivores and vegans alike. Skewered zucchini, summer squash, onion and red bell pepper snuggle up to a bundle of thin-stalked, fired-to-a-crisp asparagus. A healthy bed of brown basmati rice and a ramekin of a cumin-rich balsamic dressing come along for the ride. It’s enough to feed the whole table, so eat your vegetables, or else no pie for you. $16.95. 3520 W. 70th St. 952.697.6000.
THE LEFTOVER FIEND
Turkey and Bacon Sandwich at Peoples Organic Coffee and Wine Café
Some people insist that Thanksgiving leftovers are better than the main event. My brother predictably launched his late-night fridge raids with gusto, creating sandwiches that would bring Dagwood to his knees. We found a worthy contender in the grilled turkey and bacon on ciabatta at Peoples Organic. The warm and pillowy roll is stuffed with spinach, pickles, aioli melted cheddar, layers of shaved turkey breast and slabs of thick-cut bacon. Like everything else at Peoples Organic, it’s all free-range, nitrate-free and locally sourced. Gather the troops at this bustling cafe for a fortifying lunch during the perennial post-Thanksgiving trek to the mall. $11. 3545 Galleria; 952.426.1856
THE PEACEKEEPER
Stuffed Potatoes at Eden Avenue Grill
There’s something reassuring about potatoes. They’re satisfying, versatile and pretty much liked by all. As the unofficial ombudsman of the family, I always craved a large pile of mollifying mashed potatoes. Eden Avenue Grill offers a selection of crazy-big baked spuds that are filled with all manner of deliciousness; we found the bacon, tomato and Colby cheese version to be especially soothing. Go ahead and up the fat content with the sides of butter and sour cream—it’s a holiday, right? This eatery twinkles with a homey, welcoming, inclusive vibe, the perfect setting to enjoy a calm, convivial, cross-generational evening. $8. 5101 Arcada Ave.; 952.925.5628
THE JOLLY ONE
Pinot Noir at Beaujo’s Wine Bar and Bistro
Conventional culinary wisdom dictates that turkey demands pinot noir. No one knew that better than Pop, and the fruit of the vine always did flow at our Thanksgiving table. At Beaujo’s Wine Bar, you can taste a few different pinot noirs, including the beguiling earth and berry of the 2010 Meiomi from California. Beaujo’s is a classy oasis where you can marshal your resources for the rigors of the holiday season–and in the meantime steep yourself in Oenology 101. It makes for good dinner table conversation. 4950 France Ave. S.; 952.922.8974
THE DESSERT MAVEN
Citrus Curd Tart at Patisserie Margo
My grandmother always demanded lemon meringue pie at Thanksgiving–not that she would ever make it herself–and my mother usually humored her, despite the labor-intensive recipe. Why not let someone else fuss with it this year? Patisserie Margo is a fine place to pick up a tart or a pie to go, and it’s rife with seasonal options like the luscious maple nut tart. We discovered a mouthwatering lemon tart made from a shortbread crust and baked sour cream custard, and topped with swirls of homemade citrus curds. Granny would approve. Small $17.50, large $30. 5133 Gus Young Lane; 952.926.0548
THE ICONOCLAST
Perfume River Invitation at Rice Paper
My mother’s dream Thanksgiving meal was a multi-course feast at a Chinese restaurant. She pretended that it was a protest against societal conventions, but we knew that she was keen to avoid the drudgery of cooking and hosting a group of boisterous relations. We indulged her wishes a few times, and each one turned out to be among the most memorable of Thanksgivings; apparently, being naughty as a whole family is particularly gratifying. Rice Paper features Asian fusion cuisine—elements of Chinese, Thai and Vietnamese—enchantingly special for a festive gathering. The elegant setting can also accommodate a noisy bunch. My mother always ordered a shrimp dish, since it cost a few bucks more than chicken or pork and thus suited to the occasion. The Perfume River Invitation (what a name!) with grilled shrimp, baby bok choy and tangy ginger sauce over jasmine rice is just the ticket. $18.95. 3948 W. 50th St.; 952.288.2888.
