Minnesotans might stand accused of confusing barbecue with grilling, but we can obsess over fire-cooked meat with the best of them. Memorial Day weekend officially marks the opening of outdoor cooking season, and we’re already salivating at the thought of all that tender, smoky goodness. The ritual is a large part of the pleasure: Tending the fire, then basting the beast—all with a tall frosty one in hand, of course.
We sought the counsel of a local expert to inspire and edify us on the finer points of cooking with fire. Mike Shannon, culinary director and executive chef of Cooks of Crocus Hill, is a South Carolina native—thus the ideal barbecue missionary. Lucky for us, he’s throwing some barbecue wisdom our way. First, consider his tips to the perfect ’cue, then sample some lip-smacking classics to get you going:
- Learn the right terms. Barbecue calls for low heat and long cooking time. Grilling means high heat and short cooking time.
- Assess your meat. Less expensive, tougher cuts like pork butt and shoulder lend themselves well to barbecue. More tender, pricier cuts such as steak or shrimp are best grilled.
- Know your fire. Charcoal- or gas-generated heat is a matter of preference. Charcoal boasts a smoky flavor but less heat control. Gas affords temperature precision but requires a smokebox for flavor.
- Equip yourself. A comfortable set of tongs, a wire brush, a long-handled spatula and meat thermometer are nonegotiable. Optional gear includes a basting brush, smoking chips, and a pigtail slipper.
- Prepare. Allow the meat come to room temperature before cooking for even doneness. The larger the piece of meat, the more important this is. Do not let it sit out for more than one hour.
- Be patient, part 1. Let the meat rest after cooking. All cuts should rest for about a third to a half of the cooking time to allow heat and moisture to redistribute evenly.
- Be patient, part 2. Flip just once, and only when the meat pulls away easily from the grill.
- Be patient, part 3. The sugar content in barbecue sauce will burn if you put it on too early. Brush it on the meat in the last 10-15 minutes of cooking.
- Consult the experts. Books are a great resource. Check out Pig: King of the Southern Table by James Villas, or take a class!
COOK’S CAROLINA BBQ PORK BUTT
Serves 20
1 pork butt, shoulder roast or Boston butt, about 5–6 lbs
2 Tbsp. salt
2 Tbsp. sugar
2 Tbsp. brown sugar
2 Tbsp. ground cumin
2 Tbsp. chili powder
2 Tbsp. ground black pepper
1 Tbsp. cayenne pepper
¼ cup paprika
Combine dry ingredients, and rub mix evenly over pork surfaces. Cover, and refrigerate for 24 hours.
Prepare your grill. If using charcoal, let coals burn down to white ash. Or heat your gas grill to a 225 degrees. Scatter wood chips on the charcoal periodically. Keep the temperature at 200–225 F. Put the pork on the grill over indirect heat and cover. Keep covered except to add coals or wood chips.
Cook for about 5 to 6 hours or until meat pulls apart easily. Remove from grill, and tent with foil. Let rest for one hour.
BBQ Sauce
Yield: 1 qt.
12 oz. cola
8 oz. tomato sauce
6 oz. tomato paste
4 oz. butter
8 oz. Worcestershire sauce
½ cup brown sugar, packed
½ cup molasses
½ cup cider vinegar
1 Tbsp. balsamic vinegar
1½ Tbsp. steak sauce
1 Tbsp. yellow mustard
1 Tbsp. chili powder
1 tsp. dried thyme
1 tsp. onion powder
1 tsp. garlic powder
1 tsp. Tabasco
In a large saucepan, mix together the cola, tomato sauce, tomato paste, butter, Worcestershire sauce, brown sugar, molasses, both vinegars, steak sauce and mustard. Season with chili powder, thyme, onion powder, garlic powder and hot sauce, and stir to blend. Cook over low heat, stirring occasionally, until the mixture is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. Brush onto pork in the last 10 minutes of cooking. Serve extra sauce on the side.
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Cooks of Crocus Hill barbecue and grill classes begin May 1. Visit cooksofcrocushill.com to see descriptions and to register.
Thai-marinated Flank Steak
Serves 8
½ cup vegetable oil
½ cup unsweetened coconut milk
¼ cup fresh lime juice
¼ cup zoy sauce
2 Tbsp. fish sauce
2–3 Tbsp. honey
1–2 Tbsp. sambal oelek
½ stalk lemongrass, trimmed and coarsely chopped
4 cloves garlic
2 lb. flank or hangar steak, trimmed
Lime wedges
½ cup cilantro, chopped
Combine all ingredients except steak in a blender, and blend until smooth. Place steak in non-reactive container, cover with mixture, and marinate for up to 2 hours.
Prepare grill over high heat. Remove excess marinade from steak, and cook for 3–5 minutes on each side until internal temperature reaches 135 degrees. Remove from grill, rest for 5 minutes, and slice thinly on the bias. Serve with lime wedges and cilantro.
Grilled Salmon with Chinese BBQ Sauce
Serves 6–8
1 Tbsp. canola oil
1 clove garlic, minced
1 Tbsp. ginger, minced
2 green onions, minced
1 tsp. red pepper flakes
½ cup orange juice
½ cup hoisin sauce
¾ cup soy sauce
3 Tbsp. honey or agave nectar
2 tsp. sesame oil
3 lb. salmon steaks, one-inch thick
Salt and ground black pepper
Heat a medium-size saucepan over medium heat. Add canola oil, and sauté garlic, ginger, and green onion until fragrant and tender. Add the red pepper flakes. Combine juice, hoisin, soy, honey and sesame oil in a separate bowl, and add to the saucepan. Bring to a low simmer, and cook for 8–10 minutes.
Preheat grill to medium-high heat. Season the salmon steaks on both sides with salt and pepper. Oil the grill grates. Place the fish down for 4 to 5 minutes. Flip the fish over, and brush with the barbecue sauce; continue cooking for another 4 to 5 minutes, until opaque throughout.
Serve with wilted greens.
Perfect BBQ Chicken
Serves 8
8 chicken thighs, bone-in, skin-on
½ cup cider vinegar
2 cups water
1/3 cup sugar
¼ cup salt
Place chicken in non-reactive dish or large sealable plastic bag. Combine vinegar, water, sugar and salt. Pour over chicken, seal container, and refrigerate for about 90 minutes.
Preheat grill to medium heat. Remove chicken; pat dry. Lightly season with salt and black pepper on both sides. Grill chicken, turning occasionally, until internal temperature is 165 degrees. Baste both sides with sauce, and serve.
Perfect BBQ Sauce for Chicken
1 Tbsp. butter
1 white onion, finely chopped
2 red chiles, seeded and chopped
1½ cups ketchup
3 Tbsp. molasses
3 Tbsp. brown sugar
2 Tbsp. Dijon mustard
1 Tbsp. Worcestershire sauce
Juice of a lemon
½ Tbsp. liquid smoke
1 tsp. garlic salt
1 tsp. fresh ground black pepper
Heat a saucepan, melt the butter, and throw in the onions and chiles for about 4 minutes or until the onions turn translucent. Add remaining ingredients; simmer for about 10 minutes.
Grilled Cinnamon Bananas with Mexican Chocolate
Serves 6
6 bananas, ripe and unpeeled
1½ Tbsp. sugar
1 tsp. ground cinnamon
½ cup coarsely grated or chopped Mexican or other quality bar chocolate
1 pint vanilla bean ice cream
Slice bananas in half lengthwise and crosswise. Place cut side up on sheet pan. Combine sugar and cinnamon, and sprinkle on bananas. Let bananas sit for 5 minutes.
Grill bananas cut-side down on a clean grate for about 2 minutes or until grill marks appear. Turn, and let cook 5 more minutes or until the skin pulls away from the banana. Remove, peel, and plate. Top with grated chocolate and ice cream.